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« back on news06.08.2013

On 31.7.2013 couple of climbers, Mr. Josef Rakoncaj (CZ) and Agostino Da Polenza (IT) summited second highest mountain in the world - K2 (8611 mtrs).

They have reached the summit by Japanese route on the North ridge without using the artificial oxygene. It was in very late evening, just before 9,00 PM. Both climbers had to take bivouac just 50 mtrs below the summit. Surviving the bivouac in 8650 mtrs just prooved how skilled and experienced they are. It is probably the highest successful bivouac still up to date.

We now celebrate 30th anniversary of this extraordinary climb and remind the time of pioneer climbers summiting the world´s highest peaks in alpine style without using artificial oxygene.

Mr. Josef Rakoncaj summited the peak of K2 one more time, in 1986 over the Abruzzi ridge again without using the artificial oxygen and became the first climber ever to do so twice. He is holding this record probably untill today.

Here Joska compares both expeditions: "First was classical expedition. We were outside of Europe for 4,5 months. Also the North ridge route was much more demanding. Last part we had to climb without ropes and it has almost 60 degrees. All this above 8000 mtrs. In Abruzzi ridge there are old fixed ropes, orientation is far easier. We have even climbed without using a ice-axe."